#85「7DAYS INDIA その2 アジアの鉄則」

公開日: : 最終更新日:2016/02/15

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インドに着いて、初めての朝。
窓の無いホテルの一室で目が覚めた。デリーの1月は肌寒く、日本の秋の終わりくらいの陽気だった。

宿泊先は一泊900ルピー、日本円で1,800円。そこそこ部屋は清潔で、トイレとシャワーがあり、インドでは中級クラスのホテル。

インドの首都であるデリー。この街には、特に強い思い入れも無かった。それでも、ホテルの目の前にはメインバザールと呼ばれる繁華街があり、カメラをぶら下げて散歩をすれば、店や人や乗り物が早速、僕の目を奪って離さなかった。

薄曇りの空、鳴り響くクラクション、通りをふらつく野良牛、指で器用に歯を磨く若者、古めかしい廃墟のような茶色い建物、湿った道に散乱しているゴミ、路上で鶏をさばく男。

ホテルの前の通りを歩くだけで、当たり前だけど、そこにはインドがあり、充分に旅心を刺激してくれた。

旅二日目の大きなミッションは2つ。1つ目は、日本から予約しておいた鉄道のチケットをH.I.Sデリー支店で受けとること。2つ目は、20時45分発の寝台列車に乗って、旅の一番の目的地であるバラナシへ向かうことだ。

近くのレストランでインド式のブレイクファーストを注文し、簡単に朝食を済ませたあと、街の中心地であるコンノートプレイスへ向かうことにした。

インドの一般的な移動手段には、オートリクシャと呼ばれる3輪のバイクタクシーがある。地球の歩き方をめくると乗車方法は、通りを流している運転手に行き先を告げ、値段を交渉することから始めるらしい。

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交通量の激しい道路へ足を運ぶと、客待ちをしていたオートリクシャの運転手と目があった。目ん玉がギョロっとした少し怖そうな無愛想な男。目を一瞬たりとも離さず、こちらに向かって歩いてきながら、英語で話しかけてきた。

「どこへ行きたいんだ?」

「コンノートプレイスまでだけど、いくらするの?」

すると、男は「80ルピーだ。」と口にした。日本円だと160円。だがしかし、オートリクシャの相場がよくわからない。

アジアでは「タクシーの運転手が日本人相手に乗車料金をボッてくる」のが常識。なので試しに、「それは高い!40ルピーにしてくれ。」と、ちょっと強い口調で僕は言葉を返してみた。

すると、男は首をかしげて「それでは無理だ、60ルピーでどうだ?」と交渉してきた。

その金額が高いのか安いのかわからなかったけど、とりあえずその料金で交渉成立。コンノートプレイスまで乗せてもらうことにした。レストランやホテルなどの格式の高い店は別だけど、タクシーの料金や露天の店には、決まった料金なんてものはない。全てお互いが交渉して、値段を決めるのがこの国のスタイルなのだ。

その後、何度もオートリクシャのお世話になったが、運転手の言い値の半分の値段をいったん提示して、お互いの値段の中間くらいの料金でほとんどの場合、交渉が成立した。

屋根付きのオートリクシャに10分くらい揺られると、あいかわらず無愛想な運転手が、バックミラー越しにこちらをにらみ、「ここだ。」と目で合図した。大勢の人で賑わうこの場所が、コンノートプレイスのようだ。

そしてここからが問題。
なぜなら、H.I.Sデリー支店は、とにかくわかりずらい場所にあるらしいからだ。日本で渡された、頼りない地図を参考に店を探してみるが、やっぱりどこにあるのか、よくわからない。

困った顔で地図を広げていると

「ヘイ!ジャパニー!ナニ サガシテルノ?」

陽気なインド人のオッちゃんが日本語で話しかけてきた。

アジアの旅において「日本語で話しかけてくる現地人には要注意!」というのが鉄則。

しかし、道を尋ねるだけならば問題ないだろうと判断し、H.I.Sを探してることを告げてみた。

「ソレ シッテルヨ !ソノミチ マッスグイッテ ヒダリニアルヨ。」

その答えには真実味がありそうに感じた。どうやら、本当に親切な人だったみたいだ。「ありがとうございます。 助かりました!」とお礼を口にした。疑って申し訳なかったと心で謝りながら。

すると、「ニホンジン ナカヨシダカラ モンダイナイ」と笑いながら、肩に手をまわしてきた。

その時だ!ざわざわした悪寒に近い感触が一瞬、僕の背中を通過した。

なんと!オッちゃんの右手が自分の背負っていたリュックのチャックを開けようとしているのだ!

ハッとして身を翻し、慌てて彼から離れた。するとオッちゃんは全く悪びれることなく、変わらずニコニコと白い歯を見せながら手を振っていた 。「日本語で話しかけてくる現地人には要注意」というのはやはりアジアの鉄則のようだ。

それから半信半疑でオッちゃんの言ったとおりに歩いてみると、確かにその場所にH.I.Sデリー支店は存在していた。スリだけど道案内は、ちゃんと教えてくれたオッちゃん。半分良い人で半分悪い人のどこか憎めない明るいインド人。それでこそインド !面白い。

ちなみにデリーのH.I.S支店はこんな廃墟みたいな場所にある。日本ではとても考えられない、最悪にわかりずらい立地条件。

これだけでもこの国は充分、面白い。

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#86 「7DAYS INDIA その3」


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