#89「7DAYS INDIA その6  ガンジス川で初日の出」

公開日: : 最終更新日:2016/02/15

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1月1日  バラナシ。

「ジリリリリリリリリリーーーーーン!!」

2011年を迎えて、5時間半が過ぎた頃。

携帯にセットしていた目覚ましが鳴った。そして僕は憂鬱な気分で新年初の朝を迎えた。なんで昨日の夜、あんな約束をしてしまったのだろう。年越しのパーティーで同じ席で一緒になった日本人の大学生達と酒を飲んだ勢いである約束をしてしまった。
それは「ガンジス川で沐浴をすること。」

ガンジス川はインド人にとって聖なる川である。このバラナシの町で遺体を焼き、ガンジス川に遺灰を流すことが、インド人にとっての最高の幸せなのだ。だが、しかしコレラ菌が3時間で死ぬほどの、バイ菌だらけの川としても世界的に有名な川でもある。もし、間違って川の水を飲んでしまったら、その後には修行を超越する下痢地獄が待っているらしい。

自分はただでさえ大腸が弱く、普段からおなかピーピーなのに。そんな自分がガンジス川で沐浴なんてしたら、間違いなく腹を壊して、旅を続けることさえできなくなるはず。

沐浴することに興味はあるけど、自分は絶対しないと決めていたのに!ついつい、日本人の大学生の3人組と酒を飲んでいて、
「篠部さんも、明日の朝、沐浴しましょうよ!大丈夫ですよ!」なんて誘われて、若いモンに負けていられない!そんなバカなことを思ってしまったのがマズかった。

とにかく、これから同じホテルに泊まっている大学生3人と1階のロビーで待ち合わせをし、ボートに乗ってガンジス川から初日の出を眺めた後、沐浴をすることになってしまったのだ。

5時50分。少し遅れて眠気ナマコで大学生3人はロビーに降りてきた。彼らのリーダー的存在であるタクヤくんはインド旅行は2回目。しかも沐浴経験者である。

インドでは沐浴経験者は沐浴未経験者からすると、ある種、尊敬の眼差しで見つめられる。自分の目に彼はとても眩しく映り、かなり頼もしい存在だ。そんな彼を先頭に、自分を含めた4人はまだ、夜が明けきらないバラナシの町を歩き、ガンジス川へ向かった。

3、4分も歩くと僕らはまだ薄暗いガンジス川へ到着した。すでにガンジス川は新年をここで迎えようとする人達でいっぱいだ。

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すると、僕ら4人のまわりにどこからともなくインド人のおっちゃん達が群がってきた。どうやらみんな、ボート乗りの船頭さんらしく、自分のボートに勧誘するために集まってきたのだ。その群がるボート乗り達をタクヤ君が男らしくさばいていく。

「いくらだ? 何?300ルピー? 4人で300? ダメだ 高すぎる!じゃぁ乗らない!次!」ボート乗りとの交渉の仕方も知らない自分からしたら、その姿はホントに逞しく映った。

そして、4人で1時間ボートに乗って200ルピーのボート乗りを見つけて交渉成立。そのボート乗りはとても誠実そうで、タクヤくんの人を見極める力も確かだと感じた。そして、いざボートに乗り込みガンジス川を上流の方へと上がっていった。

町には鐘の鳴る音が鳴り響き、とても神聖な新年の朝だ。だがしかし、バラナシの空は雲で覆われ、なかなか太陽は顔を出してくれそうもない。せっかく、日本からガンジス川で初日の出をみる為に、遥々インドまでやってきたのに!

それから約1時間ボートに揺られたが、結局バラナシの太陽が顔を見せてくれることはなかった。このまま、日本に帰るわけにはいかない。こうなったら、もう話のネタを作る為にもやるしかない。

残された道はただひとつ、ガンジス川で沐浴だ!

ボートは陸に着き、かなり寒かったけど、震える体をさすりながら意を決してパンツ一丁になった。まさか35歳にもなって、インドでパンツ一丁になろうとは。

そして、よし、いざ沐浴するぞとガンジス川の方へ振り返った。その時だ。奇跡が起こった。なんとさっきまで、雲で覆われていた空から太陽が顔を出してくれたのだ。ついに念願の初日の出だ。

太陽がガンジス川を照らし、川が輝いている。

このチャンスを逃してたまるものかと、ガンジス川に足を入れた。すると、ヌルヌルとした感触が足のつま先から伝わってきた。足の裏が楕円形の固い何かを踏んだ。もしやこれって頭蓋骨?

そう考えると、早くも川から出たくなったが、気にしないことにして、朝日に向かって足を運んだ。耳の穴に水が入らないように人差し指で両手の耳をふさいで、ついに僕は聖なる川へダイブした。

1回!2回!3回!頭の先まですっぽりと勢いよく3回続けて沐浴した。

気持ちがいい!

不思議なくらい、すがすがしい気分になり、体中から力がみなぎってくるような気さえした。太陽を見ることは不可能かとあきらめていたのに、ガンジス川で初日の出を拝むことができた。しかも沐浴中に!

やっぱり自分は持ってる。2011年の初日からこんな奇跡が起きるとは、今年は間違いなくいい一年になりそうだ。

そう思った、数分後。まさかあんな出来事に巻き込まれてしまうとは。その時の僕はまだ、夢にも思っていなかった。

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

跡が起きた!
無理だと諦めかけていたバラナシの空に太陽が姿を現したのだ。ついにこの旅の目的である「ガンジス川で初日の出」を拝むことを達成した!

聖なる川の力を体全身で浴びて、意気揚々と興奮していると、視線の先でインド人の僧侶らしき男が自分に向かって手招きをしている。どうやら、ガンジス川で身を清めた人にお祈りをしてくれるみたいだ。

男は人差し指で自分の額に赤い斑点を押し、お祈りをはじめた。何やらうさん臭い気もしたが、聖なる川の前だし興奮していたたせいもあり、そのまま身をゆだねることにした。そして、お祈りが終わったその直後に事件は起きた。

「1000ルピー。」

男がとんでもないことを口にしたのだ。

やられた。1000ルピーといったら、インドではとんでもない大金だ。
しかも、こっちから頼んだわけでもないのに、勝手に祈って1000ルピー請求するなんて!聖なる川の前で人をだますとは。

「ちょっと待ってくれ!そんな金は持っていない!だから払えない!」

悪徳僧侶に向かって叫んだ。

実際、それは嘘ではなかった。ホテルに大きいお金をおいてきたので、その時は小銭しか持っていなかったのだ。すると、悪徳僧侶は口にした。

「それじゃぁ、お金はお前の友達に借りればいい。お前の前にお祈りをした友達はちゃんと金を払ったぞ。」

驚いて、自分より先に沐浴をしていた大学生のリ-ダーのタクヤくんに目を向けた。そしたら、寒さに震えた彼がうなずいた。

「えっ!?タクヤくん、この男にお金を払っちゃったの?」
「ハイ。払わなければ、家族が不幸になるって言われたので。」

一瞬、言葉を失った。まさか、自分よりもインド慣れした、あの頼もしいタクヤくんが、こんな男に騙されるなんて!

「篠部さん、とにかく、めちゃくちゃ寒いんで、とりあえず僕が払っておきますから。」

そう言って、タクヤくんは財布からお金を出して悪徳僧侶に1000ルピーを払ってしまった!信じられない!せっかく元旦にガンジス川で初日の出に照らされながら沐浴したのに!

あっという間に、人に騙されることになるとは(泣)!

だがしかし、もう済んだことはしかたがない。あきらめてホテルに帰ろうとすると、近くにいたインド人の少年が教えてくれた。

「バカだなー、日本人は。1000ルピーも払うなんて。普通は払っても100ルピーだよ。それから、あの男はニセモノだけどね。」

そいつは聞きたくなかった!ニセモノかもしれないと薄々気付いてはいたけどね。インド人からその真実だけは聞きたくなかった!トボトボと歩きながら、空を見上げるとそこにはもう、太陽の姿はなかった。

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